That’s why in this blog, we’ve put together this guide to help you find out what type of amplifier you need for your new system. Remember – you should either choose an amplifier first and build your system around it, or you choose the other components first and choose an amplifier (or amplifiers) to power the components. This complete car amplifier buying guide assumes you have an idea of what type of system you want without any idea about the amplifier.

Knowing Your Amplifier Class

An amplifier increases the power signal it’s being fed from the head unit. When sound is being played, it boosts the amplitude (size) of its signal headed toward the speakers from the stereo. The highs stay crisp, the lows are bumpin’ and the melodies flow.

Every amplifier follows the same fundamental operating rules and serves the same purpose. That does not imply, however, that all car amplifier classes are created equal. As opposed to others, some amplifiers are better suited for particular uses.

Amplifiers are engineered to convert these electrical signals by a few different methods called “classes.” The most common amplifier classes are A, B, A/B, and D:

• Class A: have high sound fidelity but low efficiency. An older style of amplifier that is on 100% of the time and uses a large amount of power.
• Class B: a little more efficient than Class A and has the potential to suffer from “crossover distortion” as the circuits push-n-pull between one another. 
• Class A/B: The most common amplifier used in Hi-Fi systems. Combines the functionality of A with the efficiency of B.
• Class D: The most common amplifier in use today for car audio applications. Class D amps are more efficient than Class AB, can fit in a smaller case, and as of fairly recent innovations, can rival the audio quality of Class A/AB amplifiers.

Selecting a Channel Configuration

All amplifiers are designed to output power into different “channels”. This helps pair the amplifier to the application it’s being used in. The most common amplifiers are 2-channel, 4-channel, and monoblock. Now, just because an amplifier is branded as a “2-channel” doesn’t mean it’s only capable of powering 2 speakers. In theory, it’s possible to have as many speakers as you want to be paired with a 2-channel amp, it will just change the impedance (ohms) and change how the power is distributed between the speakers. Even though it’s possible to wire many additional speakers, it’s most common to use a 4-channel amplifier for 4 speakers, a 2-channel for 2 speakers, and so on.

Here’s a list that helps identify each different amplifier channel configuration and more information about each one:

Monoblock Amplifier

• Mono (one channel, no Left/Right differentiation)
• High-powered car amplifier
• Not full-range since subwoofers do not play higher frequencies
• Usually used to power one or more subwoofers
• Commonly has Class D circuitry, however, can also have Class A/B as well

Monoblock amplifiers are designed primarily for subwoofers. Subwoofers require a lot more power than standard speakers, and the signal does not need to be as clean as the signal going to a full-range amplifier. Bass doesn’t need to be processed as much for high-quality sound, as a really nice full-range amplifier does. Monoblocks are also not usually full-range capable because higher frequencies are not played by subwoofers. Having these amplifiers capable of playing high frequencies would be a huge waste of efficiency. Because subwoofers require much more power than smaller tweeters or door speakers, monoblock amps are designed for maximum efficiency and power output first.

If what you’re looking for is a monoblock amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling monoblock amps at Sonic Electronix.

2-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-range
• Bridgeable
• Can be used to power one set of speakers (2 total speakers)
• Most commonly used to power a subwoofer, or multiple subwoofers
• Usually has Class A/B Circuitry, but can also have full-range Class D as well

Perhaps one of the most popular selections, 2-channel amplifiers are great for multiple purposes. Two-channel amplifiers output dedicated power to two separate channels, great for powering one set of car speakers (2 total speakers). The two channels can also be combined, or bridged together to provide more output to one dedicated channel, and is commonly done to power a subwoofer or subwoofers. 2-Channel amplifiers are stereo, meaning they have a Left and Right output. This is important for staging and tuning. These amplifiers are capable of playing what is considered the full spectrum of sound that humans can hear, usually around 20-20,000 Hz.

If what you’re looking for is a 2-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 2-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

3-Channel Amplifier

• Hybrid Amplifier
• Front 2-channels are stereo/1 channel is mono
• Basically a 2-channel amp and a monoblock amp combined
• Most commonly allows an entire truck system to be powered from one amplifier (2 speakers, 1 or more subwofer)

3-Channel amplifiers are a smaller version of a 5-channel. They’re basically a 2-channel amplifier and a monoblock combined. They’re most commonly used to power an entire audio system in a 2-door truck, or other small vehicles similar to this. You’ll also find 3-channel amps used to power just the front speakers and a subwoofer in a budget system.

4-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-Range
• Bridgeable (most of the time)
• Usually used to power two sets of speakers (4 total speakers)
• Also able to be used in other configurations, however this is not as common
• Usually has Class A/B Circuitry, but can also have full-range Class D as well

Another popular option, 4-channel amplifiers, are commonly used to power an entire set of door speakers (4 total speakers). 4-Channel amplifiers are also bridgeable, allowing for a ton of configurations, but the most popular application we find these amplifiers in is powering door speakers.

If what you’re looking for is a 4-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 4-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

5-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Hybrid amplifier
• Front 4-channels are stereo/1 channel is mono
• Basically a 4-channel amp and a monoblock amp combined
• Allows an entire system to be powered from one amplifier (4 speakers, 1 or more subwoofer)
• Good for those who don’t want multiple amplifiers powering their entire system

5-Channel amplifiers are basically a mixture of a 4-channel amplifier and a monoblock amplifier, built into the same chassis. This helps eliminate the need for multiple amplifiers and elaborate wiring scenarios. These amplifiers are a great, simple solution for those looking to power 4 speakers and a subwoofer. They’re a bit more difficult to use for high-powered audio applications since 5-channels are usually only capable of running around 600-1000W RMS. This amount of power is perfect for mid-tier audio systems though.

If what you’re looking for is a 5-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 5-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

Multi-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-range
• Similar to a 4-channel amplifier, but with 2 or more extra channels
• Allows powering of a center channel, or two additional sets of speakers
• Usually for specific audiophile applications

Multi-channel amplifiers are usually reserved for audio enthusiasts or those with specific audio applications in mind. These amplifiers are most commonly used in vans, SUVs, and boats where you may require more than the traditional 4-speaker setup. They can be used in a lot of installations, but usually, they’re bought with a certain application in mind.

Determining Power Requirements

Trying to match up your system’s power requirements with an amplifier can look confusing, but really it’s easier than it seems. The first thing to always remember is to only look at RMS power. Looking at peak or max power without a deeper understanding of it, will only confuse you. Secondly, impedance (or ohms) is a way to measure resistance. All speakers have an ohm rating, or impedance that tells the amplifier how much power to output. Lower impedance means more wattage from the amplifier. At 4 ohms an amplifier will output less power than at 2 ohms; however, an amplifier is more comfortable running at higher impedance and will tend to run cooler. For example, an amplifier at 4 ohms may put out 75 watts RMS, and at 2 ohms this same amplifier will output 100 watts RMS. Finally, you’re going to want to match up the impedance and RMS wattage of the speaker and amplifier. For example, if the manufacturer specifies that each speaker will require 100 watts RMS at 4 ohms, you will want to find an amp that pushes between 70-130 watts RMS at 4 ohms.

For more information regarding impedance, check out this video on matching subwoofers and amplifiers:

You may also want to check out our subwoofer wiring diagrams to show you the proper, exact way of connecting your subs to your amplifier.

Although you will get sound from a speaker even if you’re powering it with less than 70% of the rated RMS power, it’s usually not advised. When underpowering a speaker or subwoofer there’s a problem you’ll run into called “clipping”. This occurs when the amplifier tries to push more power to the subwoofer or speaker than the amplifier is safely capable of reproducing. For more on clipping, check out this video.

Determine if Auxiliary Battery is Required

Batteries are underused in car audio, when in reality they should be overestimated and overused. It’s understandable, considering that adding an additional battery is a bit of an investment to an already expensive complete system build, however, the investment can be put to exceptional use in moderate and higher-powered systems. Personally, I agree with the rule of thumb that systems running over 1000 watts of total RMS power should ALWAYS have at least an upgraded starting battery. An auxiliary battery should also be highly considered in these types of systems. The reason for this is, car audio systems are very demanding when it comes to using power. Your vehicle has a battery used to start your car, but also powers things like your head unit, air conditioner, power windows, illumination on the dash, and, perhaps most importantly, headlights.

A common symptom you’ll see when adding a higher-powered car audio system (600W RMS and up) is that when the bass hits, you’ll see your headlights dimming. This is because bass is very demanding, and every time it’s hitting it’s pulling a ton of voltage from your battery. In order to combat this, I’d personally recommend any system over 600 watts of RMS power (or fuses that add up to 60 amps or more) should highly consider either upgrading their starting battery to one more capable of keeping up with their system, or adding an auxiliary battery.

Determining The Right Wire Gauge

Now, you’ve picked out your amplifier, and you’ve picked out the speakers and subwoofer(s). You’re reading to get this system ordered and installed. Hold up. One last final thing to mention is wiring. Now, we’ve stressed the differences between Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) and Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) wiring before in some of our videos and blogs. This is important to consider, but mainly we’re going to assume you went with OFC and are curious about the gauge of wire to choose.

The fuses on your amplifier (if your amplifier has them, lately more manufacturers have been opting out of external MIDI fuses and relying on your main fuse near the battery to protect your amplifier) are a good place to start to determine what wire gauge to choose. The reason for looking at fuses instead of rated power, is that power ratings with amplifiers can be very misleading. Reliable manufacturers in the industry who follow CEA-compliant power ratings are much easier to determine wire gauge for than manufacturers who just list peak power or over-inflate their RMS power ratings.

Looking at the total RMS power for your amplifier(s) is the way to determine the main run from your battery to your amplifier area. Another factor to consider is the length of the wire run. If you have your amplifiers under your front seat, you may be able to get away with a small gauge then if you’re running it to a trunk. Consider the RMS power, the length of the run, and the quality of the wire that you’re choosing to find out if you’re using a large enough wire to allow for proper system requirements.

Looking for the best amplifier for your car audio system? Visit Sonic Electronix, the world’s premier retailer of car electronics and consumer electronics. We’ve sold online since 2000 and are the recipients of various customer service and product awards. Check out our selection of car stereos, amps, subs, speakers, and more from Pioneer, JVC, NVX, Belva, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Cerwin-Vega, and more.

The post Car Amplifier Buying Guide: Picking The Right Amp For Your Vehicle appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

However, buying a subwoofer is a more complex process than picking one at random, throwing it in your car, and wiring it up. Some research is highly recommended so that you can choose the perfect subwoofer for your system. When choosing car subwoofers, you also need to keep in mind things like the amount of space in your vehicle’s cab or trunk and what kind of music you listen to. Most car audio enthusiasts take particular pride in their woofers.

When buying a subwoofer there are a couple of things you may want to consider before pulling that “Checkout” trigger. Read on!

Choosing The Right Subwoofer Size For Your System

Before you purchase a new subwoofer, it is important to note the physical size of the subwoofer you want. As with everything in car audio, space is not always readily available, and subwoofer sizes can vary from slim fit subs to 18″ behemoths. The size of your subwoofer (the diameter) is important to know for installation processes and if you are planning to purchase or build an enclosure. The most popular subwoofer sizes are 10″ and 12″. Other common subwoofer sizes are 6.5″, 8″, 13″, 15″, and 18″.

It is also critical for you to be aware of the mounting depth space you have to work with and the mounting depth of the subwoofer that you are planning on purchasing. If you buy a subwoofer that has a mounting depth greater than you have to work with, you’ll either have to get a different subwoofer or do some serious modifications.

Knowing What Type of Subwoofer You Need

The next thing you have to consider is whether you want an enclosed subwoofer or a component subwoofer. An enclosed subwoofer contains an internal amp. This makes this option much easier to install. This option also saves space and is easier to install as opposed to component subs. Component subs rely on an external amp to power them. These take up more space and can oftentimes be more costly. However, there is a noticeable difference in overall sound quality. This option is far more customizable to your needs. They are also more tedious to install because you have to build the enclosure and properly wire them.

What Are Voice Coils?

A voice coil is the coil of wire attached to the cone. Driving a current through the voice coil produces a magnetic field, which in turn moves the cone. The number of voice coils allows for different wiring configurations. The type of voice coil setups includes single, dual, or quad voice coil. Dual voice coil subs have more wiring flexibility than single voice coil subs; however, single voice coil subwoofers provide easier hookup options for wiring multiple subwoofers in parallel or series. You may run a dual voice coil (DVC) sub in parallel, series, or combination. A quad voice coil has four voice coils and is equal to two dual voice coil subwoofers (in terms of wiring capabilities).

What Materials Are Used In A Subwoofer Cone?

Paper cones produce natural-sounding bass, but are the least durable cone material. This is why you commonly see materials such as polypropylene being used for cones. Polypropylene tends to be more durable than paper, but also retains some natural sound. Finally, you’ll find titanium cones and other materials in some premium woofers. This is all used for specific reasons depending on the manufacturer and can provide different-sounding bass.

Do I Need To Purchase An Enclosure?

Component subwoofers should be mounted in an enclosure for optimal performance. You can choose a sealed, ported, bandpass, or truck & shallow-mount box based on your subwoofer specifications and available vehicle space. We also offer premade package deals under Subwoofers with Enclosures. These Enclosed Subwoofer Systems include subwoofers prebuilt into a box.

If space is at a premium, consider installing a powered subwoofer, which is essentially an enclosure loaded with an amplifier and a woofer. We also offer vehicle-specific subs that are specially designed to save space and match the interior of your vehicle.

Is Getting A Big Subwoofer Better?

In the case of car subwoofers, bigger is not necessarily better. The best subwoofers have high sensitivity ratings. These measures how effectively a speaker converts power into sound. Subs with a higher sensitivity rating will play louder, given a set amount of input power.

To demonstrate, consider the following example. If “SUBWOOFER A” has a relatively lower power rating than “SUBWOOFER B”, but “SUBWOOFER A” has a relatively higher sensitivity rating, then “SUBWOOFER A” will play louder (assuming the sensitivity differences are substantial). Therefore, a smaller subwoofer with higher sensitivity ratings can boom louder than a larger subwoofer with lower sensitivity.

Taking Power Into Consideration

The RMS power handling rating refers to the amount of power a car subwoofer can handle on a continuous basis. Pairing your amps and subs with incorrect RMS power ratings could cause harm to the amplifier or subwoofer. It is ideal to match the combined total RMS wattage of the subwoofers to the amplifier.

We recommend slightly over-powering your subwoofer based on its recommended RMS power rating. This will help prevent accidentally over-powering or blowing your sub. You should select a subwoofer based on the amount of power output generated by your amplifier, the sub’s impedance, and the voice coil specifications.

For ease and convenience in finding the right amplifier for your subwoofers, check out AmpliFinder: An Amplifier Finder Tool designed and tested by Sonic Electronix. Just select your subwoofer’s manufacturer, model number, and how many subs you’ve got, and wait to discover the best amp that matches your setup. 

Series vs. Parallel Wiring

Another thing you have to consider is series vs parallel wiring. Subwoofers come in SVC (Single Voice Coil) which means it has two wiring terminal posts: one positive and one negative. 

There are two ways of connecting these two terminal posts to the amplifier through Series and Parallel wiring to properly manage the overall impedance load. 

Wiring in Series will double the impedance load and reduces RMS power.

Wiring in Parallel cuts the impedance load in half and increases RMS power.

Subwoofers also come in DVC (Dual Voice Coil), adding another pair to the positive and negative terminals to give more options in wiring the sub. 

The impedance measures the load value (in ohms) that the speakers present to the amplifier, or the amount of resistance to the current flow. Car subwoofer impedance can be rated at a 2 ohm, 4 ohm, or an 8 ohm load. When you are trying to match up a subwoofer’s power rating with an amplifier, be sure the power ratings are estimated at the same ohm load.

To help you in setting up the connection routes for your two audio devices, check out our subwoofer wiring diagrams to show you the proper, exact way of connecting your subs to your amplifier.

At Sonic Electronix, we’ve got the X-factor in providing top-notch car audio products and installation services. Boost your bass with our selection of subwoofers, subwoofer boxes, bass packages, and subwoofer installation accessories. Our customer service and technical support teams are available to you five days a week, and we’re always happy to help!

The post Car Subwoofer Buying Guide: Finding The Bass For Your Vehicle appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

The best way to being your OEM upgrade is to start with your car stereo (aka in-dash receiver or head unit). There are two sizes, double din and single din  which are determined by the size of your dash stereo opening. Within the last decade or so, Double Din units have become the norm. It’s been a necessity since 2018 when back-up cameras became legally required in vehicles.

The first step is to assess what features you’d like to add or keep in your stereo. Initially specifications like the display interface or touchscreen functions will lead you to determine if you want smartphone integration for Apple CarPlay or Android Auto. Do you need built-in Bluetooth or just an Aux or USB input?

With your new head-unit, shift into looking at replacing the car speakers so you can enjoy the full potential of your sound system.

Factory speakers can be cheap and wont last for the life of your vehicle. Aftermarket speakers are made with higher quality materials and produce higher fidelity sound.

Replacing your factory speakers with some aftermarket coaxial speakers can make a noticeable difference in sound quality. Coaxial includes multiple drivers in one unit to provide a fuller range of sound without having to install multiple speakers – usually at a lower price point.

Component speakers allow for more customization of your soundstage design and investing in range specific speakers. Wiring these systems take a bit more work and require an amplifier to ensure all the proper signals are being channeled to and from the stereo.

Like with head units, each vehicle will come with a set speaker opening. Sonic Electronix offers 3.5” to 8” sizes. Via our My Garage function on the home page or fitment guide, you can shop with pre-filled results for products that will work with your ride.

Amplifiers

Amplifiers function just like the namesake implies – they amplifier the power of your speakers to produce more sound.

Head units can only produce a limited amount of power, with a more intense system set up an amp is needed to keep sound clear without shorting out your audio.

When considering an amplifier, you need to make to get the correct number of channels. A monoblock amp can only be used to power a subwoofer while a 2 or 4-channel amp. A 5-channel can power 4 speakers and a subwoofer all at once. Also, make sure to pay attention to the class of the amp, class D for example, are extremely efficient and high-powered.

When installing an amp, it is important to consider the strength of your alternator so that you won’t experience power issues like dimming headlights or even dead batteries.

The post Quick Guide to Car Audio appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

We are frequently asked by people new to car audio: how much does it cost to install a subwoofer? They want the extra bass for their music, but they really don’t know where to start. In this article, I am going to break down a few separate audio upgrades at varying prices.

Easy to Install & Affordable

The first option I want to discuss is an under-seat subwoofer with an integrated amp. The NVX QBUS8v2 is an 8-inch subwoofer that is a great option who wants to quickly upgrade their factory sound system. It is incredibly compact and easy to install even for a beginner. As I stated before, it also has an integrated amp along with it. This means that you won’t have to wire your sub to an external amp because it is all housed in one convenient enclosure. Plus, you’ll need a wiring kit. One reliable wiring kit would be this NVX XKIT82. This is a 100% copper wiring kit meant specifically for a monoblock or a 2-channel amp. Your total would be $154.94. You could also consider getting a second enclosure which would just double that price and put you at just over $300.

Mid-range

For a more noticeable upgrade in sound quality for a bit higher price point you should look no further than the JL Audio 12W0v2-4. This is by far one of our highest rated subs that we sell. Currently it is rated 4.9 stars on 624 customer reviews. This sub offers great sound quality for the price and it can handle power up to 300W RMS. You could pair this with this Single 12″ Sealed MDF Subwoofer Enclosure. This is also a very well-reviewed product with 4.7 stars on 154 customer reviews. For an amp, a great Monoblock option would be the NVX BDA7501. At 4 ohms it will output 450W RMS. Finally, you’ll need an amplifier wiring kit to wire everything together. You could utilize the wiring kit I discussed earlier. That brings you to a total of $324.96.

Superior Sound Quality

Obviously, there are higher quality sound options available, but the cost will reflect that. The most difficult thing about upgrading your subwoofer to a $300 or $400 plus price point is the expense of the amplifier that will ultimately output that amount of power. If you were to get a 4-ohm subwoofer that can handle 1000W RMS, it may only cost $400. However, an amp like the Alpine PDX-M12 could end up costing you $600 on top of that. It’s a very high quality amp, but the price tag displays that as well.

Another option we offer is a subwoofer in the $200 range. If you were to simply upgrade to a $200 12-inch sub like the NVX XQW124 for example, you could use that same NVX amp I talked about before. Plus, you could keep the same box enclosure.

Whatever option you decide upon make sure to check out our website to find which combination would be best for you.

The post How Much Does It Cost to Install a Subwoofer? appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

We wrote an article regarding this subject two years ago, but it is important to revisit this subject because there are a lot of misunderstandings about it.

Peak Power

Peak power is only the maximum power level your speakers are able to utilize. It is never recommended to play your speakers at the peak power level. You could easily blow your speaker if you use your speakers at their peak power level for a long period of time.

RMS Power

RMS power is the level of power your speaker will be able to comfortably perform at for countless hours. This means that you can play your speakers at the RMS power rating without the risk of blowing your speaker.

Why Companies Display Peak Power

Companies display the peak power rating simply as a way to market to their consumers. Customers will see this massive number and not look into it any further and end up overpowering their speakers and blowing them. It’s like selling a car based off its top speed. Some car companies may try to brag about their car’s top speed when in reality you are never really supposed to go that speed. What really matters is something like the car’s acceleration and it’s 0-60 time. How fast a car accelerates would actually be helpful on an everyday basis while its top speed would not. Peak power is a large number that sounds cool, just like a car’s top speed, but it is something you will not use on an everyday basis while RMS power is.

It is also important to note that many companies offer warranties on their products if the speaker gets blown. However, they will not cover a blown speaker if you actually exceed the RMS rating.

Continue to educate yourself about car audio and more by visiting our blog and our learning center. Furthermore, always remember to pay attention to the RMS power when you are in the market for something new whether that be speakers, subs or even amps.

The post Why you Should Buy your Speakers Based Off of RMS Not Peak Power appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

Clarion Z25W Hi-Res Digital Sound Subwoofer

The first of its kind, the Clarioin Z25W Hi-Res digital sound subwoofer is built with only one goal in mind;  enhancing full digital audio playback. The audio geniuses at Clarion don’t mess around when it comes to fitting their products with the latest and most advanced technology. “Full digital” means the signal sent from the source to the speaker in full resolution quality with no chance of  audio signal interference or sound deterioration. As a result, the Z25W only uses 1/5th of the power required in the typical analog sound system. The big takeaway from this sub is a slim profile design, unprecedented sound quality and power.

Innovative Designs and Compact Builds

In the old days, subwoofers were big and bulky.  Subwoofers were 2x the size and delivered 1/2 the output. This deterred many people from upgrading their car audio because it meant you would have to sacrifice your entire trunk or back seat just to install a sub. Thanks to some really ingenious innovations, subwoofers are now smaller than ever, deliver more articulate and dynamic bass and are unbelievably powerful. Small footprint = more versatility and compatibility. It is now possible to install a full audio system in even the most compact vehicles on the market.

JL Audio 13TW5v2-4

Not only does JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 look sleek and beautiful, it is also one of the most slim and compact subs on the market. JL Audio achieved this compressed architecture by using concentric tubes structures to support over sized suspension attachments and voice coils. Unlike conventional subwoofers, the JL Audio TW5v2 series subwoofer allows you to maintain excellent linear excursion and mechanical stability. With a mounting depth of only 2.5 inches, you can add top quality bass into virtually any vehicle. Every aspect of the sub from development to production is carried out in the United States. So you can bet when you buy this sub, you are buying the best.

RE Audio SEXv2-15D4

Think back to RE Audio’s best-selling SEX subwoofer series; well the re-vamped SEX v2 series maintains the same look but with some added new features. The SEX V2 subs have improved excursion capabilities, power handling, and efficiency. To achieve this, RE Audio has incorporated a new basket structure, enhanced the internal motor and redesigned the magnetic assembly. This sub is also proudly made in America, so you know you are going get top quality performance.

Advancements in Noise and Distortion Reduction

There a number of factors that contribute to subwoofer distortion. Magnet structure, build materials, design, etc. can all create noise and distortion within a sub. This is particularly evident in dynamic drivers that have non linear componenets in motor and suspension systems. These non-linearities increase distortion almost four times more that a woofer with completely linear movement.  Subwoofers today use highly sophisticated monitoring and control system to identify and immediately rectify any audible deviation from electrical input to acoustical output.

JBL S3-1224

Traditionally, only dual voice coil subs had the ability to change impedance by wiring the subs in either series or parallel wiring. JBL addressed this matter by introducing the Selectable Impedance Technology into its Series 2 and 3 subs. The JBL S3-1124’s selectable impedance toggle switch allows users to switch the impedance from 2 ohm or 4ohm without having the require the entire sub. Just simply flip the switch. Its that easy! The audio geeks over at JBL understand the importance of flexibility and convenience without sacrificing quality. The Selectable Smart Impedance technology has made it easier than ever to get to most out of your sub. JBL hit it out of the park with this new feature and now has other brands following.

Image Dynamics IDMAX12 D4 V.4

This 12 Inch ID Max V.4 series subwoofer comes fitted with some very intelligent and advanced features that seem to be way ahead of its time. Whether it’s the design, ease of control or long-lasting, durable materials, Image Dynamics appears to know exactly what the customers want. With a staggering 2 inches of linear excursion, you can expect a crystal clear, clean and articulate bass at high output levels. One of the most notable features is the Radiator cooling system that keeps the subs cool even under the most intense listening sessions. Lastly, 100% made in America so you know you are getting a sub created with the highest quality craftsmanship.

The Bottom Line

If you are a music lover who has lived through all the different ages of subwoofers, then you no doubt appreciate how far the technology has come. When the audio technicians began this long and never ending journey to perfection, they had no idea that what was once literally a magnet in a pipe could turn out to be a source of great, tight, deep and ultra powerful bass. At sonicelectronix.com we welcome you to step in, buckle up and enjoy the ride. Innovation is far from over and like fine wine, can only get better with time.

The post Top 5 Most Innovative and Advanced Subwoofers appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

What Is Impedance?

Impedance is the measure of opposition that a circuit presents to a current when voltage is applied. In electrical systems, this resistance is measured in ohms. To get a better grasp, lets imagine a wide open freeway with no traffic (low impedance = low resistance). You will be able to travel faster and more easily because their are fewer vehicles on the road impeding your speed. However, when rush hour comes around (high impedance = high resistance), traffic becomes heavy and cars move slower and less easy. Much like these cars, electricity gets slowed down by too much resistance. Likewise, the lower the resistance, the easier it is for current to flow.

So, you are most likely thinking to yourself, “lower impedance must always be better right?” Not always. While at lower impedance levels you will be able deliver to the most power to your audio system, there are trade-offs. In theory, higher impedance will yield better sound quality but will be less loud. At lower impedance levels, sound will be more loud but will experience diminished sound quality. What does this mean for the customer? If you are someone that is into high quality audio at a moderate listening level, higher impedance would be the way to go. On the flip side, if you are the person that competes or just loves that car rattling bass, lower impedance would suit you better. Traditionally, only dual voice coil subwoofers were able to be wired to different ohm loads but companies like JBL have simplified this by adding a selectable resistance switch that allows users to switch between 2-ohm and 4-ohm loads. Here are the benefits of being able to toggle between higher and lower impedance levels.

Benefits of Lower Impedance Levels

If you go for a subwoofer with lower impedance levels such as 2 or 1 ohm, you will have enhanced projection of sound. This is because lower impedance equals much higher rates of power flow. While this will make the audio louder, it will result in a decrease in sound quality. This occurs because the speaker is required to work harder to maintain this flow and to project the sound.

Benefits of Higher Impedance Levels

If you run your subs at higher impedance settings such as 4 ohms, you actively slow down the flow of power. By impeding the electrical currents, there is less stress on your vehicle’s electrical system resulting in smoother operation. This means the music will not be as loud but you will get superb sound quality and clarity.

JBL S2-1024

The JBL S2-1024 offers car owners strong, tight and uncompromising bass. This beast of a subwoofer is capable of reproducing crystal clear and  bold sound for a studio-like experience, right in your car. In addition, this sub provides the convenience of selecting between 2-4 ohms of resistance without having to re-wire your whole subwoofer setup. No more confusing wiring diagrams. You can bet the JBL S2-1024 will deliver those bass lines with precision and power right through your body.

JBL S2-1224

When it comes to resourcefulness and flexibility, JBL is is leading the way. The innovative Selectable Smart Impedance Technology gives users the ability to select a resistance that suits their system and listening style. So, how do you control such massive amounts of power? Simple. An exclusive, dual impedance switch allows you toggle between 2-ohms and 4-ohms allowing the user more versatility and variability in their system.

JBL Series II & III Selectable Impedance Explained

JBL S3-1024

JBL has set a new standard for convenience and versatility with the S2 and S3 series subs. The JBL S3-1024 sub includes all the same perks as its predecessor but with improved features. The over-sized magnet allows for maximum power and the aero-cooled voice coils channel air pumped from the sub’s cone movement for maximum airflow to avoid overheating.

JBL S3-1224

JBL is always pushing the limits and introducing new and state-of-the-art features and products to the car audio industry.  The JBL S3-1224 subwoofer offers users the choice of superb sound quality and unprecedented power and performance. The Selectable Smart Impedance technology intelligently optimizes power and sound quality while enhancing the sub’s overall potential with uncompromising performance.

Bottom Line

Whether you’re an audiophile or not, you will notice that songs possess their own unique sound. It would be impossible for a sub to hit all of the bass notes across all genres of music. JBL has addressed this matter by adding another level of versatility and convenience with its Selectable Smart Impedance feature. By allowing users to adjust their subwoofer impedance, users can now unleash the full potential of their audio system. Love your ears and your car by checking out these and more speakers at www.sonicelectronix.com today.

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• Custom designed bass enclosure
• Fits 2006-13 Lexus IS 250/350/F vehicles
• Hand-laid fiberglass shell
• Installs easily into the left side of the trunk
• 10″ Dual 4 Ohm VCW Series Subwoofer
• RMS Power Range: 600-750 watts
• Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
• Sensitivity: 83dB

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The NVX B.O.O.S.T subwoofer enclosure is the perfect solution for those Lexus owners who want to add a subwoofer that will fit perfectly in their vehicle. And with it being loaded with a 10″ VCW Series subwoofer, you can be sure that you will get head turning bass as well as excellent sound quality out of this bass upgrade system. In addition, if you are looking for everything you need to install the Lexus Sub Box into your IS Series, the B.O.O.S.T sub box is also available in a bundle package with an amplifier wiring kit and an NVX monoblock amplifier! Find yours today for a great price at SonicElectronix.com!

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Buying a Subwoofer Enclosure

Building your perfect car audio setup requires more than just the components; you also are going to need the right mounting hardware to have your system meet its potential. Your subwoofer is no exception when it comes to a subwoofer enclosure. A subwoofer without an enclosure isn’t capable of functioning to it’s full potential. If you want to really make your subwoofer bump, this means finding the right enclosure not only to meet the requirements of your sub, but also the space limitations for your car. You can also build an enclosure yourself to meet your subwoofers requirements, however it is not recommended unless you are an experienced craftsman and have a complete understanding of the various specifications.

What Size Subwoofer Do You Have?

Your first step in purchasing a subwoofer box should be obvious, what size is your subwoofer? You can’t buy a box designed for an 8” subwoofer and use it with a 12” sub, it simply won’t fit. The cut out dimensions need to match your subwoofer exactly for the box to function properly. It is also imperative for you to know the mounting depth of your subwoofer, if you purchase a box that is too shallow for your woofer, you’re also going to be in trouble. You also need to know how many subs you plan on installing. If you’re only going to be putting one subwoofer in your car, you’ll need to get a single sub enclosure. However, if you plan on installing 2 subwoofers, dual sub boxes are also available (however they can take up a significant amount of space).

What are Your Subwoofers Airspace Requirements?

Once you have determined what size enclosure you need for your subwoofer, it’s time to get into some of the finer details to get your bass to really hit hard. Matching your subwoofer to the proper enclosure is no simple task as you need to know the precise Thiele/Small (T/S) Electromechanical Parameters as well as the air space requirements of your specific sub. The T/S parameters as well as the air space requirements of your subwoofer should be provided by the manufacturer.

What Kind of Box Do You Need?

There are 3 types of subwoofer enclosures: sealed boxes, ported boxes and bandpass boxes. Subwoofer enclosures are most commonly (but not exclusively) constructed from medium density fiberboard (MDF). Each box type has its own merits and features, but not every subwoofer is designed to work with any box type.

Sealed Boxes are airtight enclosures to house your subwoofer. A sealed box provides deep, precise bass and is ideal for any music that demands tight and accurate bass. Sealed enclosures are not overly boomy, provide outstanding power handling as well as incredibly deep bass extension. Sealed enclosures also typically more compact and can fit in more places in your car easier. As a general rule, sealed enclosures require more power than a ported box and use of an amplifier is usually recommended.

Ported enclosures (or vented enclosures) feature an additional port for air flow in and out of the box. The added air flow of ported boxesallows the box to play louder with less power required. Ported boxes are best used for rock, heavy metal or any other genre of bass heavy music.

Bandpass enclosures are more specialized enclosures which place the sub between a sealed and ported box. These enclosures are designed to provide the hardest hitting bass performance. They produce much more bass than their sealed and ported counterparts, however it is over a much more narrow frequency range. These enclosures are ideal for rap, R&B, hard rock, metal and other bass heavy music. Bandpass boxes are often the largest enclosure type.

What Else Do You Need to Know?

Among other considerations you need to make when purchasing a subwoofer enclosure is the amount of space you have in your car. Subwoofer enclosures can take up a large amount of space and depending on what kind of car you have, any type of enclosure may not work. Not all vehicles have the room of an SUV, van or even a hatchback to accommodate the larger sub enclosures and you’ll need to know how much open space you have (and are willing to sacrifice) to add an enclosure.

Trucks are often the most difficult vehicle to install a sub enclosure in simply because there is very little free space in the cab. Enclosures in pickup trucks can generally only be installed behind the driver and passenger seats. These types of enclosures feature an angled design to fit snuggly up against the seatback. Another potential location for the installation of your subwoofer enclosure is under the seats in your car. These enclosures are perfect if you’re trying to keep your sound system inconspicuous as they will be hidden from view. The most common type of enclosure is the trunk mount enclosure. These ‘big box’ enclosures fit in the trunks of sedans and in the cargo area of hatchbacks, vans and SUVs. Trunk mount enclosures can vary quite a bit in size and take up a significant chunk of your storage space.

Vehicle specific enclosures are also available for select vehicles. These enclosures are designed to fit precisely into specific vehicles and will often fit in out of the way places. These types of enclosures can be constructed out of MDF like most common enclosures as well as fiberglass. Fiberglass is an ideal material for vehicle specific enclosures because it can be molded to fit in virtually any space.

Preloaded enclosures are also available to purchase; these enclosures eliminate the guesswork of selecting a box to match your subwoofer as they come with the subwoofer built-in. A preloaded enclosure can also include an amplifier, making your installation process even simpler.

Once you have your enclosure installed in your vehicle and subwoofer mounted in it, you’re ready to enjoy your new sound. At Sonic Electronix, we have everything you need to get your bass up to par.

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It is fully equipped with two 10″ HD subwoofers with an impressive custom enclosure.  It also has 5 sets of HD Series speakers powered by three HDA8004 four-channel amplifiers and two HDA8002 two-channel amplifiers for the subs. To top it off, there is a car stereo with wireless app control and a convenient custom iPad mount in the trunk strategically located with the subs and amps.

Audio upgrades aren’t the only thing present on this all-wheel drive beauty.  It comes complete with upgraded upholstery, surf rack, and carbon fiber lip kit.  Performance parts are plentiful with performance exhaust, cold air intake, coil overs and a sway bar. This would be quite a car to own.

As an added bonus, the folks at Scosche used hyperflex accumat to sound dampen areas such as door panels resulting in drastically reduced outside noise from the road and engine.  This tricked out subby is completely capable of handling extreme weather conditions and anyone would be satisfied with the level of sound quality the system provides.  This is just one of the many specticals to be discovered the year’s biggest electronics expo.  Stay tuned for more coverage of CES 2013!

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