That’s why in this blog, we’ve put together this guide to help you find out what type of amplifier you need for your new system. Remember – you should either choose an amplifier first and build your system around it, or you choose the other components first and choose an amplifier (or amplifiers) to power the components. This complete car amplifier buying guide assumes you have an idea of what type of system you want without any idea about the amplifier.

Knowing Your Amplifier Class

An amplifier increases the power signal it’s being fed from the head unit. When sound is being played, it boosts the amplitude (size) of its signal headed toward the speakers from the stereo. The highs stay crisp, the lows are bumpin’ and the melodies flow.

Every amplifier follows the same fundamental operating rules and serves the same purpose. That does not imply, however, that all car amplifier classes are created equal. As opposed to others, some amplifiers are better suited for particular uses.

Amplifiers are engineered to convert these electrical signals by a few different methods called “classes.” The most common amplifier classes are A, B, A/B, and D:

• Class A: have high sound fidelity but low efficiency. An older style of amplifier that is on 100% of the time and uses a large amount of power.
• Class B: a little more efficient than Class A and has the potential to suffer from “crossover distortion” as the circuits push-n-pull between one another. 
• Class A/B: The most common amplifier used in Hi-Fi systems. Combines the functionality of A with the efficiency of B.
• Class D: The most common amplifier in use today for car audio applications. Class D amps are more efficient than Class AB, can fit in a smaller case, and as of fairly recent innovations, can rival the audio quality of Class A/AB amplifiers.

Selecting a Channel Configuration

All amplifiers are designed to output power into different “channels”. This helps pair the amplifier to the application it’s being used in. The most common amplifiers are 2-channel, 4-channel, and monoblock. Now, just because an amplifier is branded as a “2-channel” doesn’t mean it’s only capable of powering 2 speakers. In theory, it’s possible to have as many speakers as you want to be paired with a 2-channel amp, it will just change the impedance (ohms) and change how the power is distributed between the speakers. Even though it’s possible to wire many additional speakers, it’s most common to use a 4-channel amplifier for 4 speakers, a 2-channel for 2 speakers, and so on.

Here’s a list that helps identify each different amplifier channel configuration and more information about each one:

Monoblock Amplifier

• Mono (one channel, no Left/Right differentiation)
• High-powered car amplifier
• Not full-range since subwoofers do not play higher frequencies
• Usually used to power one or more subwoofers
• Commonly has Class D circuitry, however, can also have Class A/B as well

Monoblock amplifiers are designed primarily for subwoofers. Subwoofers require a lot more power than standard speakers, and the signal does not need to be as clean as the signal going to a full-range amplifier. Bass doesn’t need to be processed as much for high-quality sound, as a really nice full-range amplifier does. Monoblocks are also not usually full-range capable because higher frequencies are not played by subwoofers. Having these amplifiers capable of playing high frequencies would be a huge waste of efficiency. Because subwoofers require much more power than smaller tweeters or door speakers, monoblock amps are designed for maximum efficiency and power output first.

If what you’re looking for is a monoblock amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling monoblock amps at Sonic Electronix.

2-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-range
• Bridgeable
• Can be used to power one set of speakers (2 total speakers)
• Most commonly used to power a subwoofer, or multiple subwoofers
• Usually has Class A/B Circuitry, but can also have full-range Class D as well

Perhaps one of the most popular selections, 2-channel amplifiers are great for multiple purposes. Two-channel amplifiers output dedicated power to two separate channels, great for powering one set of car speakers (2 total speakers). The two channels can also be combined, or bridged together to provide more output to one dedicated channel, and is commonly done to power a subwoofer or subwoofers. 2-Channel amplifiers are stereo, meaning they have a Left and Right output. This is important for staging and tuning. These amplifiers are capable of playing what is considered the full spectrum of sound that humans can hear, usually around 20-20,000 Hz.

If what you’re looking for is a 2-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 2-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

3-Channel Amplifier

• Hybrid Amplifier
• Front 2-channels are stereo/1 channel is mono
• Basically a 2-channel amp and a monoblock amp combined
• Most commonly allows an entire truck system to be powered from one amplifier (2 speakers, 1 or more subwofer)

3-Channel amplifiers are a smaller version of a 5-channel. They’re basically a 2-channel amplifier and a monoblock combined. They’re most commonly used to power an entire audio system in a 2-door truck, or other small vehicles similar to this. You’ll also find 3-channel amps used to power just the front speakers and a subwoofer in a budget system.

4-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-Range
• Bridgeable (most of the time)
• Usually used to power two sets of speakers (4 total speakers)
• Also able to be used in other configurations, however this is not as common
• Usually has Class A/B Circuitry, but can also have full-range Class D as well

Another popular option, 4-channel amplifiers, are commonly used to power an entire set of door speakers (4 total speakers). 4-Channel amplifiers are also bridgeable, allowing for a ton of configurations, but the most popular application we find these amplifiers in is powering door speakers.

If what you’re looking for is a 4-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 4-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

5-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Hybrid amplifier
• Front 4-channels are stereo/1 channel is mono
• Basically a 4-channel amp and a monoblock amp combined
• Allows an entire system to be powered from one amplifier (4 speakers, 1 or more subwoofer)
• Good for those who don’t want multiple amplifiers powering their entire system

5-Channel amplifiers are basically a mixture of a 4-channel amplifier and a monoblock amplifier, built into the same chassis. This helps eliminate the need for multiple amplifiers and elaborate wiring scenarios. These amplifiers are a great, simple solution for those looking to power 4 speakers and a subwoofer. They’re a bit more difficult to use for high-powered audio applications since 5-channels are usually only capable of running around 600-1000W RMS. This amount of power is perfect for mid-tier audio systems though.

If what you’re looking for is a 5-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 5-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

Multi-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-range
• Similar to a 4-channel amplifier, but with 2 or more extra channels
• Allows powering of a center channel, or two additional sets of speakers
• Usually for specific audiophile applications

Multi-channel amplifiers are usually reserved for audio enthusiasts or those with specific audio applications in mind. These amplifiers are most commonly used in vans, SUVs, and boats where you may require more than the traditional 4-speaker setup. They can be used in a lot of installations, but usually, they’re bought with a certain application in mind.

Determining Power Requirements

Trying to match up your system’s power requirements with an amplifier can look confusing, but really it’s easier than it seems. The first thing to always remember is to only look at RMS power. Looking at peak or max power without a deeper understanding of it, will only confuse you. Secondly, impedance (or ohms) is a way to measure resistance. All speakers have an ohm rating, or impedance that tells the amplifier how much power to output. Lower impedance means more wattage from the amplifier. At 4 ohms an amplifier will output less power than at 2 ohms; however, an amplifier is more comfortable running at higher impedance and will tend to run cooler. For example, an amplifier at 4 ohms may put out 75 watts RMS, and at 2 ohms this same amplifier will output 100 watts RMS. Finally, you’re going to want to match up the impedance and RMS wattage of the speaker and amplifier. For example, if the manufacturer specifies that each speaker will require 100 watts RMS at 4 ohms, you will want to find an amp that pushes between 70-130 watts RMS at 4 ohms.

For more information regarding impedance, check out this video on matching subwoofers and amplifiers:

You may also want to check out our subwoofer wiring diagrams to show you the proper, exact way of connecting your subs to your amplifier.

Although you will get sound from a speaker even if you’re powering it with less than 70% of the rated RMS power, it’s usually not advised. When underpowering a speaker or subwoofer there’s a problem you’ll run into called “clipping”. This occurs when the amplifier tries to push more power to the subwoofer or speaker than the amplifier is safely capable of reproducing. For more on clipping, check out this video.

Determine if Auxiliary Battery is Required

Batteries are underused in car audio, when in reality they should be overestimated and overused. It’s understandable, considering that adding an additional battery is a bit of an investment to an already expensive complete system build, however, the investment can be put to exceptional use in moderate and higher-powered systems. Personally, I agree with the rule of thumb that systems running over 1000 watts of total RMS power should ALWAYS have at least an upgraded starting battery. An auxiliary battery should also be highly considered in these types of systems. The reason for this is, car audio systems are very demanding when it comes to using power. Your vehicle has a battery used to start your car, but also powers things like your head unit, air conditioner, power windows, illumination on the dash, and, perhaps most importantly, headlights.

A common symptom you’ll see when adding a higher-powered car audio system (600W RMS and up) is that when the bass hits, you’ll see your headlights dimming. This is because bass is very demanding, and every time it’s hitting it’s pulling a ton of voltage from your battery. In order to combat this, I’d personally recommend any system over 600 watts of RMS power (or fuses that add up to 60 amps or more) should highly consider either upgrading their starting battery to one more capable of keeping up with their system, or adding an auxiliary battery.

Determining The Right Wire Gauge

Now, you’ve picked out your amplifier, and you’ve picked out the speakers and subwoofer(s). You’re reading to get this system ordered and installed. Hold up. One last final thing to mention is wiring. Now, we’ve stressed the differences between Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) and Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) wiring before in some of our videos and blogs. This is important to consider, but mainly we’re going to assume you went with OFC and are curious about the gauge of wire to choose.

The fuses on your amplifier (if your amplifier has them, lately more manufacturers have been opting out of external MIDI fuses and relying on your main fuse near the battery to protect your amplifier) are a good place to start to determine what wire gauge to choose. The reason for looking at fuses instead of rated power, is that power ratings with amplifiers can be very misleading. Reliable manufacturers in the industry who follow CEA-compliant power ratings are much easier to determine wire gauge for than manufacturers who just list peak power or over-inflate their RMS power ratings.

Looking at the total RMS power for your amplifier(s) is the way to determine the main run from your battery to your amplifier area. Another factor to consider is the length of the wire run. If you have your amplifiers under your front seat, you may be able to get away with a small gauge then if you’re running it to a trunk. Consider the RMS power, the length of the run, and the quality of the wire that you’re choosing to find out if you’re using a large enough wire to allow for proper system requirements.

Looking for the best amplifier for your car audio system? Visit Sonic Electronix, the world’s premier retailer of car electronics and consumer electronics. We’ve sold online since 2000 and are the recipients of various customer service and product awards. Check out our selection of car stereos, amps, subs, speakers, and more from Pioneer, JVC, NVX, Belva, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Cerwin-Vega, and more.

The post Car Amplifier Buying Guide: Picking The Right Amp For Your Vehicle appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

The four-channel configurations of the JBL GTO EZ series amplifiers are the GTO-504EZ and the GTO-804EZ. Both amplifiers are designed with quality crossovers and adjustments for gain control and bass boost. The smaller GTO-504EZ offers 50W to 4 channels at 4 ohms, and 75W to 4 channels at 2 ohms. The GTO-804EZ boasts a higher rating of 80W to 4 channels at 4 ohms, and 100W to 4 channels at 2 ohms. You can also use both amplifiers in two channel configuration, eliminating the need for a 2 channel amplifier.

The monoblock amplifiers in this series are offered in three different configurations. From a minimum of 350W, all the way up to a whopping 1000W of RMS power, these amplifiers can take care of any subwoofer application. The GTO-501EZ is rated at 350W RMS at 4 ohms, and 500W RMS at 2 ohms. The next step up is the GTO-751EZ with a power rating of 500W RMS at 4 ohms, and 750W RMS at 2 ohms. Finally is the big daddy, the GTO-1001EZwith a rating of 650W of RMS power at 4 ohms, and 1000W of RMS power at 2 ohms. All three of the amplifiers also have easily accessible tuning to make sure your system is always sounding at its best.

Finally offered in this lineup is the 5 channel GTO-5EZ as well as the unique 3 channel GTO-3EZ. Similar in configuration, both of these amplifiers offer front channels for speakers, and a dedicated high powered channel for a subwoofer. The 5 channel GTO-5EZ allows you to power four total door speakers, as well as the subwoofer. The 3-channel allows only two speakers and a subwoofer. Both of these configurations are designed to eliminate the need of a separate monoblock amplifier, saving space, time and installation cost, without sacrificing audio quality. The JBL GTO EZ Series of amplifiers is perfect for any amplifier requirement, no matter the specific configuration you require. Check them out today!

The post Save Yourself From Installation Hassles with the JBL GTO EZ Amplifier Series appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

Multi-Channel Amplifiers

2, 3, 4, 5 or more channel amplifiers are usually Class A/B.  The class is determined by the configuration of the circuitry.  Class A/B circuitry leans towards being more inefficient but provides higher sound quality.  This makes them ideal for mid to high frequencies but are sometimes used for subwoofers as well.  They will also run at much cooler temperatures considering the lower wattage applications they are required to be operated in.  If you are considering purchasing a multi-channel amplifier, then the following specifications should be kept in mind to sway your decision:

• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: This figure refers to the strength of the signal vs. the level of background noise.  A high value will indicate a lower background noise and as a result, a better signal.
• THD (Total Harmonic Distortion): This is the measurement of the harmonic distortion that is present.  It can be explained as the change in the signal as it is being amplified, and exactly how much it is changed.  A lower value is desirable, and a THD value of less than .10% is inaudible.
• Channel Separation:  Sometimes referred to as “cross-talk” this value indicates the level of interference between channels.  This value is measured in decibels and the higher the value, the greater and more effective the channel separation will be.

Mono-Channel Amplifiers

Mono-Channel Amplifiers usually are Class D.  These amplifiers are going to be able to obtain lower ohm loads and higher output, which makes them ideal for subwoofers. They are more efficient then their class A/B counterparts. In recent years, monobloc amplifiers have become more efficient and with smaller chassis. Features such as signal-to-noise ratio and THD will often be negatively affected. However, these specifications are not as important as others in regards to mono-channel amps. When examining mono amplifiers there a few different specs you should pay a bit more attention to:

• Damping Factor: Having a high damping factor means there is a high ratio between the nominal load impedance (typically 8W ) and the source impedance of the amplifier.  It is said that the higher this value is, the more cone control is present which results in a better system response and more accurate bass.
•  Pre-Amp Outputs: Most Mono amps have pre-amp outputs to daisy chain multiple amplifiers together without splitting the pre-outs from your head-unit.
• Subsonic Filter: Only on mono amplifiers, this filter allows you to block frequencies that are not able to be reproduced by your subwoofer.  This filter is usually variable between 15-50 Hz.

Using an amplifier in the wrong application is bad, mkay.

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There is something special about JL Audio products. From the subwoofers to the amplifiers, there is an undeniable aura that emanates from that JL logo. It’s something that represents quality, passion, high fidelity, and pride. Talk to anyone that has a JL Audio product in their car and you will always hear the same thing. Each one will give you a personal testimony of the JL quality and the audiophile sound it creates. JL Audio is proud of the components that they manufacture and are excited about the new JX Series of amplifiers.

The JL Audio JX Series of car amplifiers is a new line for 2011 and is designed with a moderate price tag. The main premise behind the JX amplifier is to provide a solid, high performing amplifier without all the fancy frills that make other amplifiers expensive. By keeping it simple and focusing on what really matters to an amplifier, JL Audio is able to create an amplifier series that is affordable to the average consumer, yet respected by the strictest of car audio fanatic. This is what the JX Series is all about and they do it well.

The line of JX Amplifiers includes a 2-channel, a 4-channel, and three monoblock amplifiers. The entire line is class A/B with the exception of the JL Audio JX1000/1D, which is the lone class D. The A/B circuitry helps JL keep the cost of the amplifiers down while keeping the quality up. The JX 1000/1D has a 1000-watt output at 2 ohm. This is a perfect rating for a single high output subwoofer, or a pair of moderately powered subs. One of the convenient features of the class D monoblock is that it is housed in a chassis the same size as the JX250/1. That is the beauty of class D technology. Four times the power in the same case! Start your system off right by checking out the new JL Audio JX Series amplifiers.

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By Ricky C. – Product Specialist

When searching for a car audio amplifier, it may seem intimidating when trying to narrow down which type would be correct for your application.  Out of our selections, we categorize amplifiers by the amount of channels and occasionally by their circuitry class.  You can choose from Amplifiers that are Monoblock, 2-Channel, 3-Channel,  4-Channel, 5-Channel, and even 6-Channel.  Now it’s apparent that some of these amplifiers have more channels than others, but what does this mean?

A 2-Channel Amplifier, like the Kenwood KAC-7205, is primarily used for outputting audio towards two door speakers, or to two subwoofers.  However, you can even bridge the two channels together for higher output towards one channel, like a subwoofer that requires more power.

4-Channel amplifiers like the MTX Audio TC6004 are more popular to be used primarily for amplifying four door speakers.  4-Channel Amplifiers are one of the most popular amplifier choices, purely because most cars have 4 locations for door speakers.

A Monoblock amplifier is also an extremely popular amplifier to chose.  These are single channel amplifiers which usually have more dedicated power built in.  Most of the time, Monoblocks are used to drive a subwoofer, or multiple subwoofers wired together.

So far, what we’ve learned is that if you want to amplify both of your door speakers and your subwoofer you are going to need multiple amplifiers.  The most common combination is a 4-Channel and a Monoblock setup.  This may be common, but you want to save more space.  You want to have less components to manage.  Enter the 5-Channel amplifier.  A 5-Channel Amplifier is basically two amps built into one, a great example is the Kicker ZX700.5.  It’s a 4-channel amplifier which will output a moderate amount of wattage to four door speakers.  But then, it has a little surprise found in its fifth channel.  The fifth channel has dedicated power to output made for higher powered applications, like a subwoofer.  One thing with 5-Channel amplifiers is that they have been designed to do the work of two amplifiers, so they may not have as much overall dedicated power as the previously mentioned 4-Channel and Monoblock combination.  A 3-Channel amplifier, like the Kicker ZX550.3 operates very similar to a 5-Channel, but it will be basically a 2-Channel amplifier and a Monoblock combined.

Finally, the 6-Channel Amplifier. This type of beast wasn’t designed like a 5-Channel with the large fifth channel.  The 6-Channel amplifier usually follows the 4-Channel amplifiers design, but is made for a few more speakers.  These are perfect for adding an extra few custom speakers, or perfecting that audiophile setup.   JL Audio’s XD600/6 is a great example of a hi-fi audio amplifier that pushes dedicated power to 6 separate channels!

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By Gideon V. – Sonic Electronix Editor

When it comes to amps, you don’t want to skimp on power. Did you know that slightly over-powering your subwoofers is actually better than slightly under-powering them? With the Eclipse XA1200 mono amplifier, power will not be a problem. If you wire this amp at 4 ohms, it will produce an impressive 500 watts of RMS power. Better yet, at 2 ohms it can produce 600 watts of RMS power. The advanced MOSFET power supply ensures a steady flow of wattage will be fed into the subwoofer from the amplifier. This amp is also designed with the special ICEpower technology, which means that for its power, this amp requires less energy and space than the average amp.

The Eclipse XA-1200 includes a wired remote bass level control, a key user-friendly feature. The bass remote allows you to adjust the bass output without having to access the amp itself. You can boost the bass from 0-8 decibels. In terms of heat dissipation, its heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink allows you to push the XA1200 at the top output levels without overheating. While in action the amp’s blue led indicator lights up to signal that the power is flowing. This complements the black and silver finish.

With two 40A fuses and a built-in variable low-pass filter (40-500 Hz), this amp is well-equipped and will provide superior sound quality to your vehicle. Besides this amp, all you need is an amp wiring kit to install the missing piece to your great system. We recommend using a 4-gauge power and ground installation kit when it comes time to install your amp. And once you hook this amp up, you will be able to hear and feel the difference from the way your subs pound!

Watch the Eclipse XA1200 Video Review

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