That’s why in this blog, we’ve put together this guide to help you find out what type of amplifier you need for your new system. Remember – you should either choose an amplifier first and build your system around it, or you choose the other components first and choose an amplifier (or amplifiers) to power the components. This complete car amplifier buying guide assumes you have an idea of what type of system you want without any idea about the amplifier.

Knowing Your Amplifier Class

An amplifier increases the power signal it’s being fed from the head unit. When sound is being played, it boosts the amplitude (size) of its signal headed toward the speakers from the stereo. The highs stay crisp, the lows are bumpin’ and the melodies flow.

Every amplifier follows the same fundamental operating rules and serves the same purpose. That does not imply, however, that all car amplifier classes are created equal. As opposed to others, some amplifiers are better suited for particular uses.

Amplifiers are engineered to convert these electrical signals by a few different methods called “classes.” The most common amplifier classes are A, B, A/B, and D:

• Class A: have high sound fidelity but low efficiency. An older style of amplifier that is on 100% of the time and uses a large amount of power.
• Class B: a little more efficient than Class A and has the potential to suffer from “crossover distortion” as the circuits push-n-pull between one another. 
• Class A/B: The most common amplifier used in Hi-Fi systems. Combines the functionality of A with the efficiency of B.
• Class D: The most common amplifier in use today for car audio applications. Class D amps are more efficient than Class AB, can fit in a smaller case, and as of fairly recent innovations, can rival the audio quality of Class A/AB amplifiers.

Selecting a Channel Configuration

All amplifiers are designed to output power into different “channels”. This helps pair the amplifier to the application it’s being used in. The most common amplifiers are 2-channel, 4-channel, and monoblock. Now, just because an amplifier is branded as a “2-channel” doesn’t mean it’s only capable of powering 2 speakers. In theory, it’s possible to have as many speakers as you want to be paired with a 2-channel amp, it will just change the impedance (ohms) and change how the power is distributed between the speakers. Even though it’s possible to wire many additional speakers, it’s most common to use a 4-channel amplifier for 4 speakers, a 2-channel for 2 speakers, and so on.

Here’s a list that helps identify each different amplifier channel configuration and more information about each one:

Monoblock Amplifier

• Mono (one channel, no Left/Right differentiation)
• High-powered car amplifier
• Not full-range since subwoofers do not play higher frequencies
• Usually used to power one or more subwoofers
• Commonly has Class D circuitry, however, can also have Class A/B as well

Monoblock amplifiers are designed primarily for subwoofers. Subwoofers require a lot more power than standard speakers, and the signal does not need to be as clean as the signal going to a full-range amplifier. Bass doesn’t need to be processed as much for high-quality sound, as a really nice full-range amplifier does. Monoblocks are also not usually full-range capable because higher frequencies are not played by subwoofers. Having these amplifiers capable of playing high frequencies would be a huge waste of efficiency. Because subwoofers require much more power than smaller tweeters or door speakers, monoblock amps are designed for maximum efficiency and power output first.

If what you’re looking for is a monoblock amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling monoblock amps at Sonic Electronix.

2-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-range
• Bridgeable
• Can be used to power one set of speakers (2 total speakers)
• Most commonly used to power a subwoofer, or multiple subwoofers
• Usually has Class A/B Circuitry, but can also have full-range Class D as well

Perhaps one of the most popular selections, 2-channel amplifiers are great for multiple purposes. Two-channel amplifiers output dedicated power to two separate channels, great for powering one set of car speakers (2 total speakers). The two channels can also be combined, or bridged together to provide more output to one dedicated channel, and is commonly done to power a subwoofer or subwoofers. 2-Channel amplifiers are stereo, meaning they have a Left and Right output. This is important for staging and tuning. These amplifiers are capable of playing what is considered the full spectrum of sound that humans can hear, usually around 20-20,000 Hz.

If what you’re looking for is a 2-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 2-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

3-Channel Amplifier

• Hybrid Amplifier
• Front 2-channels are stereo/1 channel is mono
• Basically a 2-channel amp and a monoblock amp combined
• Most commonly allows an entire truck system to be powered from one amplifier (2 speakers, 1 or more subwofer)

3-Channel amplifiers are a smaller version of a 5-channel. They’re basically a 2-channel amplifier and a monoblock combined. They’re most commonly used to power an entire audio system in a 2-door truck, or other small vehicles similar to this. You’ll also find 3-channel amps used to power just the front speakers and a subwoofer in a budget system.

4-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-Range
• Bridgeable (most of the time)
• Usually used to power two sets of speakers (4 total speakers)
• Also able to be used in other configurations, however this is not as common
• Usually has Class A/B Circuitry, but can also have full-range Class D as well

Another popular option, 4-channel amplifiers, are commonly used to power an entire set of door speakers (4 total speakers). 4-Channel amplifiers are also bridgeable, allowing for a ton of configurations, but the most popular application we find these amplifiers in is powering door speakers.

If what you’re looking for is a 4-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 4-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

5-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Hybrid amplifier
• Front 4-channels are stereo/1 channel is mono
• Basically a 4-channel amp and a monoblock amp combined
• Allows an entire system to be powered from one amplifier (4 speakers, 1 or more subwoofer)
• Good for those who don’t want multiple amplifiers powering their entire system

5-Channel amplifiers are basically a mixture of a 4-channel amplifier and a monoblock amplifier, built into the same chassis. This helps eliminate the need for multiple amplifiers and elaborate wiring scenarios. These amplifiers are a great, simple solution for those looking to power 4 speakers and a subwoofer. They’re a bit more difficult to use for high-powered audio applications since 5-channels are usually only capable of running around 600-1000W RMS. This amount of power is perfect for mid-tier audio systems though.

If what you’re looking for is a 5-channel amplifier, here’s a list of our best-selling 5-channel amps at Sonic Electronix.

Multi-Channel Amplifier

• Stereo
• Full-range
• Similar to a 4-channel amplifier, but with 2 or more extra channels
• Allows powering of a center channel, or two additional sets of speakers
• Usually for specific audiophile applications

Multi-channel amplifiers are usually reserved for audio enthusiasts or those with specific audio applications in mind. These amplifiers are most commonly used in vans, SUVs, and boats where you may require more than the traditional 4-speaker setup. They can be used in a lot of installations, but usually, they’re bought with a certain application in mind.

Determining Power Requirements

Trying to match up your system’s power requirements with an amplifier can look confusing, but really it’s easier than it seems. The first thing to always remember is to only look at RMS power. Looking at peak or max power without a deeper understanding of it, will only confuse you. Secondly, impedance (or ohms) is a way to measure resistance. All speakers have an ohm rating, or impedance that tells the amplifier how much power to output. Lower impedance means more wattage from the amplifier. At 4 ohms an amplifier will output less power than at 2 ohms; however, an amplifier is more comfortable running at higher impedance and will tend to run cooler. For example, an amplifier at 4 ohms may put out 75 watts RMS, and at 2 ohms this same amplifier will output 100 watts RMS. Finally, you’re going to want to match up the impedance and RMS wattage of the speaker and amplifier. For example, if the manufacturer specifies that each speaker will require 100 watts RMS at 4 ohms, you will want to find an amp that pushes between 70-130 watts RMS at 4 ohms.

For more information regarding impedance, check out this video on matching subwoofers and amplifiers:

You may also want to check out our subwoofer wiring diagrams to show you the proper, exact way of connecting your subs to your amplifier.

Although you will get sound from a speaker even if you’re powering it with less than 70% of the rated RMS power, it’s usually not advised. When underpowering a speaker or subwoofer there’s a problem you’ll run into called “clipping”. This occurs when the amplifier tries to push more power to the subwoofer or speaker than the amplifier is safely capable of reproducing. For more on clipping, check out this video.

Determine if Auxiliary Battery is Required

Batteries are underused in car audio, when in reality they should be overestimated and overused. It’s understandable, considering that adding an additional battery is a bit of an investment to an already expensive complete system build, however, the investment can be put to exceptional use in moderate and higher-powered systems. Personally, I agree with the rule of thumb that systems running over 1000 watts of total RMS power should ALWAYS have at least an upgraded starting battery. An auxiliary battery should also be highly considered in these types of systems. The reason for this is, car audio systems are very demanding when it comes to using power. Your vehicle has a battery used to start your car, but also powers things like your head unit, air conditioner, power windows, illumination on the dash, and, perhaps most importantly, headlights.

A common symptom you’ll see when adding a higher-powered car audio system (600W RMS and up) is that when the bass hits, you’ll see your headlights dimming. This is because bass is very demanding, and every time it’s hitting it’s pulling a ton of voltage from your battery. In order to combat this, I’d personally recommend any system over 600 watts of RMS power (or fuses that add up to 60 amps or more) should highly consider either upgrading their starting battery to one more capable of keeping up with their system, or adding an auxiliary battery.

Determining The Right Wire Gauge

Now, you’ve picked out your amplifier, and you’ve picked out the speakers and subwoofer(s). You’re reading to get this system ordered and installed. Hold up. One last final thing to mention is wiring. Now, we’ve stressed the differences between Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) and Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) wiring before in some of our videos and blogs. This is important to consider, but mainly we’re going to assume you went with OFC and are curious about the gauge of wire to choose.

The fuses on your amplifier (if your amplifier has them, lately more manufacturers have been opting out of external MIDI fuses and relying on your main fuse near the battery to protect your amplifier) are a good place to start to determine what wire gauge to choose. The reason for looking at fuses instead of rated power, is that power ratings with amplifiers can be very misleading. Reliable manufacturers in the industry who follow CEA-compliant power ratings are much easier to determine wire gauge for than manufacturers who just list peak power or over-inflate their RMS power ratings.

Looking at the total RMS power for your amplifier(s) is the way to determine the main run from your battery to your amplifier area. Another factor to consider is the length of the wire run. If you have your amplifiers under your front seat, you may be able to get away with a small gauge then if you’re running it to a trunk. Consider the RMS power, the length of the run, and the quality of the wire that you’re choosing to find out if you’re using a large enough wire to allow for proper system requirements.

Looking for the best amplifier for your car audio system? Visit Sonic Electronix, the world’s premier retailer of car electronics and consumer electronics. We’ve sold online since 2000 and are the recipients of various customer service and product awards. Check out our selection of car stereos, amps, subs, speakers, and more from Pioneer, JVC, NVX, Belva, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Cerwin-Vega, and more.

The post Car Amplifier Buying Guide: Picking The Right Amp For Your Vehicle appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

Simply put, an amplifier increases the power signal it’s being fed from the head unit. 

When sound is being played, it boosts the amplitude (size) of its signal headed towards the speakers from the stereo. The highs stay crisp, the lows are bumpin’ and the melodies flow. 

Amplifiers are engineered to convert these electrical signals by a few different methods called “classes.” The most common amplifier classes are A, B, A/B and D.

Shop all Sonic Electronix Car Amplifiers

Class A

This type of amplifier uses 100 percent of the signal from a simple circuit design. 

The output signal from your stereo is replicated exactly by the amp with little to no distortion or clipping. Since the amp is running the true signal, the unit is running the entire time – giving it the potential to run hot. This is why Class A Amplifiers have high sound fidelity but low efficiency. Not the best option for car audio because it lacks the ability to give good power to multiple speakers. However, they’re a great addition to someone who is happy with their system but can hear that it needs a boost. 

Class B

Most Class B Amplifiers come with two outputs which conduct signals alternately between resisters – lightening the workload between positive and negative voltage to create a unified output. 

Each transistor is on about half the time, taking half of each wave cycle to amplify. This makes them roughly fifty percent more effective than Class A Amplifiers, but it also has the potential to create “crossover distortion” as the circuits push-n-pull between one another. 

Class A/B

The most common amplifier in car audio – Class A/B is the child of Class A and B. With the double transistor circuit design out of a single input to a single output, Class A/B still functions alternatively between the two transistors. So each part is still “off” for a period of time while the other amplifies its part of the sound wave.

The dead zone that’s created by Class B amps from the switch between two transistors is reduced with each part kept on for more than half the time. It produces stable, clear music when the volume is kept at an average volume. However, if the music is turned up, it increases the volts and amperage which can create distortion. 

Sound distortion is less of an issue than with Class B – as much as 60 percent less. Installing a Class A/B amplifier is a solid choice to accommodate price point and respectable sound.

Class D

The most popular option in amplifiers are Class D. At at least 90 percent efficiency, these amplifiers don’t fall prey to frequent heat sinks so less power is drawn from your car’s charging system and overall smaller internal pieces.

Onboard circuits in the amp create high frequency pulses of DC  current. The width of this current is modified by the input signal. Through pulse width modulation (PWM), the amp can create a bigger singal with a wider pulse for a high power output. 

Before the final sound output, the signal is run through a transistor that’s either on or off, then through a low-pass filter to smooth out the PWM carrying frequency. This removes move interference and distortion before the music reaches the speakers.

Class D’s downfall is that some sound filtering is needed, perhaps beyond what’s built in.

Other Amplifier Classes

Amplifiers, alongside the rest of technology, are being developed into new classes like BD and GH. The latter is an improvement on AB and D designs – delivering the efficiency of a Class D with the quality of an AB. This is done without transistors switching on and off but through different rail voltages that swap back and forth as the signal naturally fluctuates. Class GH amps are great at reducing wasted output power, but costly to make.

Class BD have an efficiency rating like their D counterparts, around 80 percent. Filtering issues are simplified with a combination of on and off, Class B, signal relay with the distortion crossover of a Class D.

As time goes by you will see more amplifier classes appear that offer improvements over the general class A/B and class D designs. Sonic Electronix offers Class AB, AD, BD, D, H and FD.

The post Amplifier Classes + Efficiency appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

The best way to being your OEM upgrade is to start with your car stereo (aka in-dash receiver or head unit). There are two sizes, double din and single din  which are determined by the size of your dash stereo opening. Within the last decade or so, Double Din units have become the norm. It’s been a necessity since 2018 when back-up cameras became legally required in vehicles.

The first step is to assess what features you’d like to add or keep in your stereo. Initially specifications like the display interface or touchscreen functions will lead you to determine if you want smartphone integration for Apple CarPlay or Android Auto. Do you need built-in Bluetooth or just an Aux or USB input?

With your new head-unit, shift into looking at replacing the car speakers so you can enjoy the full potential of your sound system.

Factory speakers can be cheap and wont last for the life of your vehicle. Aftermarket speakers are made with higher quality materials and produce higher fidelity sound.

Replacing your factory speakers with some aftermarket coaxial speakers can make a noticeable difference in sound quality. Coaxial includes multiple drivers in one unit to provide a fuller range of sound without having to install multiple speakers – usually at a lower price point.

Component speakers allow for more customization of your soundstage design and investing in range specific speakers. Wiring these systems take a bit more work and require an amplifier to ensure all the proper signals are being channeled to and from the stereo.

Like with head units, each vehicle will come with a set speaker opening. Sonic Electronix offers 3.5” to 8” sizes. Via our My Garage function on the home page or fitment guide, you can shop with pre-filled results for products that will work with your ride.

Amplifiers

Amplifiers function just like the namesake implies – they amplifier the power of your speakers to produce more sound.

Head units can only produce a limited amount of power, with a more intense system set up an amp is needed to keep sound clear without shorting out your audio.

When considering an amplifier, you need to make to get the correct number of channels. A monoblock amp can only be used to power a subwoofer while a 2 or 4-channel amp. A 5-channel can power 4 speakers and a subwoofer all at once. Also, make sure to pay attention to the class of the amp, class D for example, are extremely efficient and high-powered.

When installing an amp, it is important to consider the strength of your alternator so that you won’t experience power issues like dimming headlights or even dead batteries.

The post Quick Guide to Car Audio appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

We are frequently asked by people new to car audio: how much does it cost to install a subwoofer? They want the extra bass for their music, but they really don’t know where to start. In this article, I am going to break down a few separate audio upgrades at varying prices.

Easy to Install & Affordable

The first option I want to discuss is an under-seat subwoofer with an integrated amp. The NVX QBUS8v2 is an 8-inch subwoofer that is a great option who wants to quickly upgrade their factory sound system. It is incredibly compact and easy to install even for a beginner. As I stated before, it also has an integrated amp along with it. This means that you won’t have to wire your sub to an external amp because it is all housed in one convenient enclosure. Plus, you’ll need a wiring kit. One reliable wiring kit would be this NVX XKIT82. This is a 100% copper wiring kit meant specifically for a monoblock or a 2-channel amp. Your total would be $154.94. You could also consider getting a second enclosure which would just double that price and put you at just over $300.

Mid-range

For a more noticeable upgrade in sound quality for a bit higher price point you should look no further than the JL Audio 12W0v2-4. This is by far one of our highest rated subs that we sell. Currently it is rated 4.9 stars on 624 customer reviews. This sub offers great sound quality for the price and it can handle power up to 300W RMS. You could pair this with this Single 12″ Sealed MDF Subwoofer Enclosure. This is also a very well-reviewed product with 4.7 stars on 154 customer reviews. For an amp, a great Monoblock option would be the NVX BDA7501. At 4 ohms it will output 450W RMS. Finally, you’ll need an amplifier wiring kit to wire everything together. You could utilize the wiring kit I discussed earlier. That brings you to a total of $324.96.

Superior Sound Quality

Obviously, there are higher quality sound options available, but the cost will reflect that. The most difficult thing about upgrading your subwoofer to a $300 or $400 plus price point is the expense of the amplifier that will ultimately output that amount of power. If you were to get a 4-ohm subwoofer that can handle 1000W RMS, it may only cost $400. However, an amp like the Alpine PDX-M12 could end up costing you $600 on top of that. It’s a very high quality amp, but the price tag displays that as well.

Another option we offer is a subwoofer in the $200 range. If you were to simply upgrade to a $200 12-inch sub like the NVX XQW124 for example, you could use that same NVX amp I talked about before. Plus, you could keep the same box enclosure.

Whatever option you decide upon make sure to check out our website to find which combination would be best for you.

The post How Much Does It Cost to Install a Subwoofer? appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

We wrote an article regarding this subject two years ago, but it is important to revisit this subject because there are a lot of misunderstandings about it.

Peak Power

Peak power is only the maximum power level your speakers are able to utilize. It is never recommended to play your speakers at the peak power level. You could easily blow your speaker if you use your speakers at their peak power level for a long period of time.

RMS Power

RMS power is the level of power your speaker will be able to comfortably perform at for countless hours. This means that you can play your speakers at the RMS power rating without the risk of blowing your speaker.

Why Companies Display Peak Power

Companies display the peak power rating simply as a way to market to their consumers. Customers will see this massive number and not look into it any further and end up overpowering their speakers and blowing them. It’s like selling a car based off its top speed. Some car companies may try to brag about their car’s top speed when in reality you are never really supposed to go that speed. What really matters is something like the car’s acceleration and it’s 0-60 time. How fast a car accelerates would actually be helpful on an everyday basis while its top speed would not. Peak power is a large number that sounds cool, just like a car’s top speed, but it is something you will not use on an everyday basis while RMS power is.

It is also important to note that many companies offer warranties on their products if the speaker gets blown. However, they will not cover a blown speaker if you actually exceed the RMS rating.

Continue to educate yourself about car audio and more by visiting our blog and our learning center. Furthermore, always remember to pay attention to the RMS power when you are in the market for something new whether that be speakers, subs or even amps.

The post Why you Should Buy your Speakers Based Off of RMS Not Peak Power appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

There are a few different factors that I had to consider when deciding which Monoblock amplifier delivers the best experience for that price point. One of the most important factors to consider is the amount of power it puts out for a subwoofer. Another factor to consider is the physical size of the amplifier. There is a large range on the price of these types of subwoofers, but the price range I am going to focus on in this article is under $200.

My New Favorite Monoblock Amplifier

One of my favorite new amps that we offer is the NVX VAD10001. This Class D Monoblock amplifier has a power rating of 1000W RMS. Surprisingly though however, this amp is all packed into an incredibly small chassis. We tested this amp and it honestly blew us away. In our test it put out over 1200 Watts. This amp has a Heavy-duty aluminum alloy heat-sink and Preamp RCA outputs to daisy chain multiple amps. Right now, you can buy this amp for only $179.99. We are even running a promotion, for a limited time, during tax season for an extra 10% off.

There are few other amps currently available that can deliver that amount of power for a price like that. This subwoofer is also very multi-functional because it is Marine certified and it has a Conformal Coated Marine grade circuit board. Therefore, it can be used in pretty much any application.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrPrB2H5TjQ

Other Options

There are many other quality options available at this price point; however, I felt that the power delivery and the small chassis makes this amp too hard to pass up. Another great option I would recommend though would be the Hifonics Brutus BRX1516.1D Monoblock Amplifier. This amplifier actually offers 1500W RMS just in a larger package. It still comes in at only $169.95.

The VAD Amp line also comes in a 4-channel and 5-channel options. The NVX VAD11005 is another amazing amp that is rated at 1100W RMS. This 5 channel option comes in at $269.99.

If you are interested in looking at any other options please visit our website and also check out our blog for more informative articles like this one. If you want to watch more products tests too, you should definitely check out our YouTube Channel as well. Also, don’t forget to take a look at our amplifier wiring kits so that you can wire your new amp properly.

The post The Best Monoblock Amplifier for Under $200 appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

These amplifiers are powerful and enhance sound quality. Clean power allows for cleaner sound. When constructing your aftermarket car audio system, there are many things to consider. One of the most important contributions will be your amp; so never cheap out.

First thing to consider when pairing an amplifier and a subwoofer is the RMS power. Ensure the power handling of the subwoofer matches the power rating of your amplifier or is within the appropriate range. For more details regarding the appropriate range, check out this blog. Next be sure if you are wiring multiple subwoofers to the same monoblock amp they are identical, meaning impedance and coil type. If you are going to run different subwoofers in your system you will need multiple monoblock amplifiers.

1. JL Audio HD1200.1

JL Audio’s HD1200.1 is the number one monoblock amplifier available in the market right now for a variety of reasons. This flagship piece offers unmatched performance from an ultra compact chassis. This amplifier require less power while generating minimal heat. Essentially this amp is extremely efficient and capable of powering high output competition grade systems.

Specifications

• 1.5, 2, 3 and 4 ohm impedance: 1200 watts x 1 channel
• R.I.P.S. Technology- Regulated, Intelligent Power Supply
• Single Cycle Control – high-fidelity, full-range class D
• Compact, stackable chassis design
• Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.03% @ 4Ω (Average at 1kHz)

A unique feature found in this series is the regulated intelligent power supply (RIPS). This technology regulates the amplifier’s output with any speaker load from 1.5-4 ohms even with fluctuating voltage. In addition JL Audio’s advanced rollback protection circuit monitors the amplifier thermal conditions and adjusts amplifier operation to eliminate amplifier shutdown.

The Single-Cycle Control delivers 1200w RMS of clean power at any impedance between 4 and 1.5 ohms. These types of innovations distinguish the HD1200.1 from the rest. If I had to choose one amp to utilize in my system it would be the HD1200.1.

You’ll hear music like never before. This class D amp uses less power and takes up less space. If you have the financial means, this is the amplifier you want in your system.

2. NVX JAD1200.1

Although the JAD1200.1 by NVX comes in at second, in my opinion this is the best buy because the HD1200.1 costs about 4.5x the amount of the JAD1200.1. Realistically that is not in everyone’s budget. NVX offers affordability, clean power and an abundance of features to customize your system.

Specifications

• Sonic Electronix Certified Power Rating:
  • 4 ohms: 662 watts x 1 channel
  • 2 ohms: 1037 watts x 1 channel
  • 1 ohm: 1384 watts x 1 channel
• Total Harmonic Distortion: <1.0%
• Signal to Noise Ratio: 111 dB

There are many benefits to adding an NVX monoblock amp to your system. The small footprint, high output capabilities are some of my favorite. Highly efficient and CEA certified, NVX uses high quality parts. Also with high and low pass filters, pre-amp outputs, and gain level control you are put in control.

This unit even comes with an illuminated badge, wired remote bass knob, and a ground gauge adapter converting 8 gauge inputs in 1/0 gauge inputs. Tested in house, at 1 ohm this amp outputs 1,647w RMS. This product is so well manufactured NVX underrates the power rating and the results speak for themselves.

I always prefer to use brands I can trust. NVX is committed to quality, performance, and usability which is best exemplified with the JAD series amplifier. The pronounced audio reproduction is complemented by the striking minimalist design of the ultra-compact chassis.

3. Alpine PDX-M12

Calling all bassheads, Alpine’s line of PDX amplifiers are compact and ideal for stacking. No matter the demands of your system the PDX-M12 can be stacked and will run cool. Fear for overheating is a thing of the past and this amp will fit into almost any application no matter how limited space might be.

Specifications

• RMS Power Rating (@ 14.4V):
  • 4 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 channel
  • 2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 channel
• CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
• Input sensitivity: 0.1-8 V with input level

What’s unique about this product is the front mount controls were designed for easy setting control post installation. With removable speaker wires, this truly is the most versatile amplifier when it comes to installation requirements. Superior materials like golf plated RCA level inputs resist corrosion and signal degradation.

The entire line of PDX amplifiers, was the recipient of the 2010 CES Innovations honors award. This award recognizes the most innovative consumer electronics products and it is no surprise Alpine’s PDX line took home the honor. And some 7 years later this is still one of the best car monoblock amplifiers available in the market.

4. Kicker CXA1200.1

The sound quality of your system starts with a good amplifier. The CX series monoblock amp by Kicker is here to fulfill that obligation. The CX amp reaches massive power levels thanks to an optimized circuit layout with the highest grade internal components available. Sleek, simple styling and installation flexibility make this an all round great amplifier.

Specifications

• RMS Power Rating:
  • 4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 channel
  • 2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 channel
• Fixed Subsonic Filter @ 25hz, 24db/octave
• Variable Bass Boost: 0 to +12 dB bass boost at 40 Hz
• Variable Low-Pass Crossover: 50 – 200Hz 12dB/octave

The most prominent feature is the fixed subsonic filter which eliminates extreme resonances causing distortion. Also Kicker’s Fail-Safe Integration (FIT) ensures a cool running amp with no fear of distortion.

Built with failsafe integration technology aka FIT. Giving the user the ability to send any audio source directly to the amplifier without line output converter. Can be installed vertically expanding mounting application. Get the bass remote CXARC.

5. Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200-1D

Rockford Fosgate designed this piece to respond instantaneously to peak power demands. You can control your systems settings with low-pass filters, subsonic filters, punch EQ, and of course bass boost enabling you maximize performance.

Specifications

• RMS Power Rating:
  • 4 ohms: 400 watts x 1 channel
  • 2 ohms: 800 watts x 1 channel
  • 1 ohm: 1200 watts x 1 channel
• CEA-2006 Compliant Amplifier
• Subsonic (infrasonic) filter: 15 – 40 Hz , 12 dB/octave
• Variable low-pass filter: 50 – 250 Hz, 12 dB/octave

It’s always recommend you install a remote knob at the drivers seat s you can have control over your bass. Designed for competitions this amp will have your bass sounding clean and powerful. Luckily this amp features a heavy duty cast allumium heat sink, for heat dissipation ensuring this unit stays cool.

With simple top mounted controls, users are able to customize their system however they please post installation without any hassle. The heavy duty, nickel plated set screw terminals can be tightened or loosened with a 3mm Allen wrench. This amplifier is easy to use and will have your system sounding amazing.

The post Best Monoblock Car Amplifier appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

Are you wondering how to match a car subwoofer and amplifier? Look no further because this blog will answer all your questions. There are three main points to consider when matching a subwoofer and an amplifier:

1. RMS Power Rating
2. Impedance
3. Type of Amp

RMS Power Rating

The RMS power is the measure of continuous power the subwoofer can accept. This is the amount of watts the subwoofer can dissipate in the form of heat and vibration without damaging the voice coil. Although max power might be a more appealing number than RMS power, this only represents the subwoofer’s capability of handling quick bursts of power rather than sustained power. Always utilize the RMS power rating.

If you are wiring two subwoofers to an amplifier, you must combine the RMS power rating of both the woofers to determine the power rating of the amp. For example two NVX VSW124v2 12″ subwoofers have 600w RMS each; 1,200w combined. What this means is that you’ll need an amplifier with a power rating between 1,080 and 1,440 watts. The perfect match is the NVX JAD1200.1 monoblock amplifier. It’s as if NVX planned these products to be used together!

Here is the calculation I used to find the power range of the amplifier:

Take the total watts and multiple it by .9 and by 1.2. This will give you the power range of your amplifier. This formula can be applied to your system and has been confirmed by the experts. It is encouraged you get an amplifier with extra power because this gives you more reserved power also known as headroom. This reduces heat exposure which is detrimental to your amp’s health. If you underpower your amplifier, your subs will output distortion causing excessive heat on the voice coil.

2. Impedance

Definition: The electrical resistance of a speaker restricting the flow of electricity, measured in ohms.

Impedance directly affects the load of the amplifier not the power requirement of the subwoofer. So when you wire your subs at 4 ohms versus 2 ohms, there will be a significant difference in power output. For example the Boss R1100M runs at 550w at 4 ohms or 1,100w at 2 ohms. But this amplifier is unable to accept a 1 ohm load because the amp will immediately go into protect mode or run excessively hot.

Never go against the specifications the manufacturer has listed. For extra help use our Subwoofer Wiring Diagram. This is a comprehensive tool designed for almost any system!

3. Amplifier

A car amplifier ranges from 1-6 channels. A monoblock amplifier is the best choice for powering subwoofers because a monoblock amp is designed to output tons of power at low impedance. You can use a 2 or 4 channel amp but this limits your power output and impedance. When bridging channels you combine the output of the 2 channels and suddenly 4 channels becomes 2 channels and 2 channels becomes 1 channel. Note that a 2 or 4 channel amp bridged usually cannot accept a load lower than 4 ohms.

Monoblock amps can power as many subs as it wants as long as the minimum impedance is not exceeded and the output power matches.

• When purchasing an amplifier ONLY buy products that are CEA compliant.
• If you don’t play your music at high volumes and your car is not massive, than a 300 watt sub will satisfy your needs assuming you have a compatible amplifier.

4. Sonic Secret

The enclosure plays a huge role in the sound quality and output of your system. Note that ported enclosures require a subsonic filter and a sealed enclosure benefits from a more powerful amplifier. Never cheap out on the enclosure build, your system will suffer.

The post How to match Car Subwoofer and Amplifier appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

One of the first things you need to consider when constructing an aftermarket system is what amplifier to use. Sure we all want louder sound and more bass but none of this is possible without an amplifier. Once you have your amp, all you have to do is match the power specifications of each speaker/woofer to the amp. But don’t worry this comprehensive guide will give you all the information you need.

Channel Configuration

The first thing you should consider is how many channels you need. This topic will be answered throughout the following section.

Monoblock Amplifier

Typically a monoblock amplifier is for bass; your subwoofer(s). A monoblock amp can be used to run one or mulltiple subwoofers. The important thing is too never drop the ohm load below what is listed, typically 2 or 1 ohms. Also make sure you have the correct power at that ohm load.  If you don’t satisfy the demands of your woofer, it will sound awful and there is really no reason to invest. Never cheap out on your amplifier this will directly hinder the sound quality.  Two of my favorite brands are NVX and JL Audio. An amplifier from either manufacturer is gauranteed to give you years of reliability and utmost sound quality.

2 and 4 Channel Amplifier

2 and 4 channel amplifiers are typically used to power your door speakers. If you have four speakers it is advised you utilize a 4 channel amplifier rather than a 2 channel amplifier. Stacking speakers will cut the ohm load in half, running your amp unnecessarily hot, and directly affecting your sound quality. Assuming watts and impedance are matched the sound quality will be impeccable. However brands do matter, not all products are created equal! Again NVX and JL Audio are my personal favorites when it comes to amplifiers.

The power demand of your speakers are going to be significantly less than your subwoofer so it is recommended your sub is powered by a monoblock amp and your 4 door speakers powered by a 4 channel amp.

5+ Channel Amplifier

A 5+ channel amplifier can be used for an entire system. 2 front speakers, 2 rear speaker and a sub all off one amazing amplifier. Again be conscious of the power demands/impedance of all the different components of your system.

Typically you can decipher what kind of amp it is by the model name and number. Often the numbers represent the wattage and total channels. For example NVX clearly labels all amplifiers so the customer can identify the wattage and channels almost instantly. The JAD1200.1D is a class D monoblock amplifier at 1200w whereas a JAD900.5 is a 5 channel amplifier at 900w. The same is true for other brands like JL Audio. The RD500/1 is a class D monoblock amplifier with 500 watts and the RD900/5 follows the same rule; 5 channel class D amp with a power handling of 900 watts. Ultimately this is true for most but not all products, there is never a universal truth when referring to car audio.

Watts Decoded

Speakers and subwoofers love good clean power, you can never have too much power; we call this headroom. The positive side of this is that your amp will never run in distortion and flat-wave your speakers. This will help everything in your system sound better and last longer. It may sound counter-logical but one of the worst things you can do is under-power your speaker/sub.

• What I am saying is if you have a 50 watt speaker, it will sound better and last longer if you run it off a 75 watt amp rather than a 25 watt amp.

Matching your system’s power requirement to your amplifier is actually much simpler than it seems. Always utilize the RMS power when determining which amplifier you will need. RMS stands for Root Mean Square, but what it means to you is the actual power demand you must fulfill. Peak power is never sustainable, our tech calls it JBIB (just before it blows).

• Brands matter, because another rating our tech calls unicorn watts exists among certain manufacturers. That 10,000 watt amp you bought for $99 does not actually have 10,000 watts.

Next you’ll want to consider impedance, which comes in the form of ohms. This determines the power output of an amp. It’s an inverse relationship because a lower impedance demands more power from the amplifier. Although the idea of more power is desirable an amplifier will have greater longevity if played at a higher impedance.

When pairing your speaker/subwoofer with your amplifier, there are a couple things to keep in mind. You’ll want your amplifier to match the RMS rating of your speakers/sub between 75-150% of the power demand. A speaker with a power handling of 200 watts demands an amplifier with a power rating between 150 and 300 watts. Next you’ll need to match impedance. A 2 ohm woofer needs an amp stable down to 2 ohms or less. Bare in mind that the wire gauge can affect impedance, with that in mind use a good quality wire that is a proper gauge for the power you are running.

Generally for mids and highs (door speakers – driver and tweeter) you’ll run at 4 ohms. Be sure to use 1 channel per speaker and your sound quality will thank you. Broken down a bit more, two speakers need a 2 channel amp whereas 4 speakers need a four channel amp. If you are not a trained professional don’t try anything fancy, stick to the basics. Chances are you will need extra guidance and a blog with this information will only complicate matters. Rather call into our expert customer service department, ask for Weber, and refer to this blog.

General info use Watt’s law: Volts x Amps = Watts (subtract for efficiency). Now that you understand the power output of your amplifier; next you’ll have to decide how you will wire your subs.

Wiring Subs

If you have a DVC sub, you have two wiring options; series or parallel. The easiest way to identify whether your sub is a DVC or SVC, is to simply count the terminals. A subwoofer with 4 wiring terminals is a Dual Voice Coil and a sub with 2 wiring terminals is a Single Voice Coil. Depending on how you utilize these coils will directly affect the impedance level.

Series

Series wiring will double the ohm load making your woofers demand less power. This will increase the longevity of your subwoofer. A couple example to better understand this concept:

• A dual two ohm woofer wired in series will give you four ohms
• A dual four ohm woofer wired in series will give you eight ohms

Parallel

Parallel wiring will cut the ohm load in half, giving you more power from the amplifier. Although more power is desirable, keep in mind the harder you work your speaker/sub the shorter the lifespan. An example to better understand this concept:

• A dual two ohm woofer in parallel will give you one ohm.
• A dual four ohm woofer in parallel will give you two ohms.

Next I will give you some real life examples to better understand the concepts listed in this blog.

Examples

This section gives you examples with actual products and specs. This will help you better understand the blog and apply these concepts to your own system.

1. If you have two 6.5″ NVX XSP component speakers in the front and two 6.5″ NVX VSP coaxial speakers in the rear just look at the recommended watts when choosing an amplifier. You can match these speakers with an NVX JAD 800.4 amp. It is as if the cats over at NVX had a plan for these products to be used together. Please note you should adjust this system with the fader on your stereo rather than the gain knob on your amp.
2. With NVX’s JAD 900.5 amp, you can wire all four speakers and a subwoofer off this single amplifier! For this example you can utilize the same 6.5″ XSP component speakers with the same 6.5″ VSP coaxial speakers. With the addition of the NVX VSW104v2 10″ woofer, your system has been completely transformed without having to invest thousands of dollars. For this specific example you’ll run 4 channels at 4 ohms for the speakers and the fifth channel at 2 ohms for the woofer.
   1. This type of system is recommended for those that want quality sound without dominating bass.

Sonic’s Secret

1. Keep it simple: You should always follow the KISS rule. Keep it simple stupid is something to live by if you are not experienced in the field. Those experienced in car audio installation can tinker with the rules because they are trained professionals. If you are not;  KISS!!Don’t try to get too fancy. Use an amp that fits your application and make sure the power handling matches your speakers and woofers. You won’t be disappointed!
2. Don’t worry about AB vs D amps: This distinction was a concern when your father was purchasing aftermarket amplifiers. It used to be that AB was much cleaner and warmer offering fuller sound whereas a class D amplifier was more efficient in regards to power output. In today’s world, there is an insignificant difference between the two classes. The lines have blurred and the distinction has little meaning.
3. Never trust unicorn watts: Always use a name brand amplifier that is compliant with CEA standards. Certain manufacturers base their power rating off unicorn watts which are essentially made up and not tested. The majority of phone calls we receive are from distraught customers because they trusted unicorn watts when construing their system.

The post Amplifier Buying Guide appeared first on Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog.

Audiopipe was initially established in the United States by Gonzalo “Gonzi” Palenzuela. Gonzi’s inspiration to car audio came from his father who started working with Pioneer Japan in the mid 60’s. Gonzi’s father, Gonzalo Senior, became close friends with then president of Pioneer Mr. Tamura, and Gonzalo Senior’s work brought Pioneer to the number one selling car audio brand in the Caribbean and South America. Gonzi, from early on, had the opportunity of interacting with employees at Pioneer Japan and even staying at Mr. Tamura’s home in Tokyo. In Audiopipe’s initial startup, sales were first launched in the Caribbean, Central and South American regions, and then migrated and spread to the US. The initial focus was designing speakers for the Latin and Reggae sound. As Caribbean customers moved to the states , places like New York, Chicago, Orlando and Miami became hot spots for the Audiopipe brand. The brand name has been synonymous with loud and clear percussion and vocals.

Audiopipe is considered a progressive car audio brand that is at the forefront of the car audio evolution. Audiopipe brought Pro Audio to the automobile and has forever changed the car audio industry. Audiopipe’s unique sound performance runs through a wide variety of genres heard throughout the North America/South America, and Caribbean urban underground music culture. They are founded on the basic principles of hard pounding bass, true life percussion, mid-bass and vocal reproduction. As a car audio manufacturer, Audiopipe takes pride in both meeting the demands of their consumers, as well as their installers. All of their customer and installer feedback is taken into their design and development process, and in adopting this philosophy, it has helped them engage into the endless perfecting of their product’s designs for loud and clear results. Nothing makes the developers at Audiopipe more happy than to hear the enthusiasm in a customer’s voice as they say “I can’t believe that you were able to make what I requested so quickly”.

In 2013 Audiopipe finalized the construction of its state of the art manufacturing facility. Allowing new designs and ideas to come to life quickly and ensuring that those designs are manufactured to the highest standards.

Audiopipe, High Performance

Audiopipe customers have been asking for more power handling and more enduring amplifiers. The 2015 lineup delivers with triple stacked magnets on the TXX-BD3 series, sound quality with high power in the Q-12 driver, and true spec output from the APCL family of amplifiers. Not only do these models handle more power and output more power, they are specifically designed to handle and output that high power for an extended period of time. Even better, they are engineered to be affordable and enjoyed by everyone!

‘Quality’ is the theme behind the Q-12, and it is clearly seen in the overall build of the driver. A Quad stacked 250oz magnet increases the magnetic field surrounding the oversized 3″ 4 Layer voice coil, generating a mechanical force that causes the coil to move back and forth. The Q-12 features Edge Extension technology that provides maximum flexibility under extreme excursion with the advantage of a greater cone surface.

The ever popular TXX-BD3-12 is equipped with a 3.3-inch 4 layer black aluminum voice coil, a 204oz triple stacked magnet, and a motor capable of handling a rated 900 watts RMS, giving them the size and power capacity for extreme endurance challenges. Its size, configuration, and power ratings makes it a perfect match for the very attractive Audiopipe APCL-15001D.

The only product in the Audiopipe lineup that is more popular than the BD3 drivers, is the Audiopipe APCL-15001D. We set out to see how much power the amplifier could provide and the APCL-15001D proved to not only do its rated numbers at 14V but it also gave us up to 35% more power on a 16V load.

Audiopipe on the Streets

“Wherever your audio lifestyle takes you, know that Audiopipe is here to meet the challenges of endurance in the modern world.”

Audiopipe’s involvement in the car audio community is prominent at all car shows. Their Research and Development starts at the consumer, and the outcome is a following that will stop at nothing to put as much Audiopipe product in their vehicles as physically possible. Audiopipe builds are often very unique, in that they are intended to create a concert of crisp, loud, clear audio. It isn’t uncommon to see a completely walled off trunk or cargo area with all Audiopipe Mids, Subwoofers, and/or Amplifiers.

With Audiopipe, we have achieved great victories in the most competitive events in Columbia, it has been quite an experience.

In short, Audiopipe is a brand that makes people feel vigorous and energetic for car audio systems…Audiopipe is destined to be a household name…

Our target customers are the people that want that loud bass and clean sound but also want a quality product that will last.

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